1. Using sharp knife, cut slits in fat cap, spaced 1 inch apart, in crosshatch pattern, being careful to not cut into meat. Dissolve table salt and 1/2 cup sugar in 4 quarts cold water in stockpot or large bucket. Submerge brisket in brine and refrigerate for 2 hours.

2. While brisket brines, soak wood chips in water to cover for 30 minutes; drain. Remove brisket from brine and pat dry with paper towels; transfer to rimmed baking sheet. Combine kosher salt, pepper, and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar in small bowl. Rub salt mixture over entire brisket and into slits.

3. Drain chips and place 2 cups in small disposable aluminum pan. Place remaining 2 cups in another small disposable aluminum pan along with 1 cup water. Set pans on primary burner (burner that will remain on during barbecuing). Place the 9-inch aluminum pie plate filled with 2 cups water on other burners. Position cooking grate over burners. Turn all burners to high and heat with lid down until very hot, about 15 minutes. Scrape grate clean with grill brush. Turn primary burner to medium-high and turn off other burners.

4. Place brisket fat-side down on grate over cooler side of grill, as far away from fire as possible without touching wall of grill. If brisket has pronounced thicker side, position it facing fire. Loosely tent meat with aluminum foil or build foil shield. Cook, without raising lid, for 3 hours. Transfer brisket to wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet lined with foil.

5. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 325°F. Roast brisket until tender and instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of meat registers 195°F, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Transfer brisket to cutting board and let rest for 30 minutes, loosely tented with foil. Cut brisket across grain into long, thin slices and serve immediately.

Serves 8 to 10