1. Sprinkle entire surface of each steak with 2 teaspoons kosher salt (or 1 tsp table salt); let sit at room temperature 1 hour. Pat steaks dry with paper towels; sprinkle each with 1 teaspoon pepper.

2. About 20 minutes before grilling, light large chimney starter filled three-quarter with charcoal (4 1/2 qts, about 75 briquettes) and allow to burn until coals are fully ignited and partially covered with thin layer of ash. Build modified two-level fire by arranging coals over half of grill, leaving other half empty and making sure coals are in even layer. Position cooking grate over coals, cover grill, and heat grate until hot, about 5 minutes; scrape grate clean with grill brush. Grill is ready when coals are medium-hot (you can hold your hand 5 inches above grate for 3 to 4 seconds).

3. Position steaks directly over coals with tenderloin sides (smaller side of T-bone) facing cooler side of grill. Grill without moving until dark brown crust forms, about 6 minutes. (Small flareups will occur; if flames become constant, slide steaks to cooler side of grill and mist fire with water from spray bottle.) Flip steaks and turn so that tenderloin sides are once again facing cooler side of grill. Continue to grill until dark brown crust forms on second side, about 6 minutes.

4. Transfer steaks to cooler side of grill with bone side facing fire. Cover grill and continue cooking until instant-read thermometer inserted into center of steak registers 120°F for rare (about 2 minutes), 125°F for medium-rare (about 4 minutes), or 130°F for medium (about 6 minutes), flipping steaks halfway through cooking time.

5. Transfer steaks to cutting board. Let rest 10 minutes. Cut strip and tenderloin pieces off bones; cut each crosswise into 1/4-inch slices. Serve immediately.

Serves 4 to 6