1. Place fillets skin-side up on rimmed baking sheet or large plate lined with clean kitchen towel. Place second clean kitchen towel on top of fillets and press down to blot liquid. Refrigerate fish, wrapped in towels, while preparing grill, at least 20 minutes.

2. While fish dries, light large chimney starter filled two-thirds with charcoal (4 qt, about 65 briquettes) and allow to burn until coals are fully ignited and partially covered with thick layer of ash, 15 to 20 minutes. Build modified two-level fire by arranging coals to cover half of grill, leaving other half empty. Lightly dip wad of paper towels in oil; holding wad with tongs, wipe grate. Continue to wipe grate with oiled paper towels, redipping towels in oil between applications, until grate is black and glossy, 5 to 10 times (photo 3 of Keys to Nonstick Grilling below).

3. Brush both sides of fish with thin coat of oil and season with salt and pepper. Place fish directly over coals skin-side down on grill diagonal to grate (photo 4 of Keys to Nonstick Grilling below), cover grill, and cook without moving until skin side is brown, well marked, and crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. (Try lifting fish gently with spatula after 3 minutes; if it doesnt cleanly lift off grill, continue to cook, checking at 30-second intervals until it releases.) Using 2 spatulas, flip fish to second side (photo 5 of Keys to Nonstick Grilling below) and cook, covered, until centers of fillets are opaque and register 125°F on instant-read thermometer, 2 to 6 minutes longer. Serve immediately with lemon wedges or your choice of sauce (see related recipes).

Serves 4