To cook wild turkey, fill it with a moist stuffing, drape it with bacon and cheesecloth, then cover the pan and roast at 350°, allowing 10 to 12 minutes a pound. To tell if a turkey is done, insert an instant-read meat thermometer in the thickest part of the inner thigh with- out touching the bone; the temperature should be 180° to 185°. You can also test for doneness by pinching the fleshy part of a thigh (it should feel soft), by wiggling the leg (it should move easily at the hip) and by piercing the inner thigh (the juices should run clear, not pink). TURKEY HOTLINES These are, for the most part, weekday, office-hour lines except for the weekend before Thanksgiving and Thanksgiving Day, when home economists will be working overtime. If your call doesnt go through, keep trying. USDA Meat and Poultry Hotline: 400-535-4555; Washington, DC residents call 202-720-3333. Butterball Turkey Talk-Line: 800- 323-4848. This bilingual (English and Spanish) hotline is available this year to Canadians too. Butterball even offers a special number, 800-TDD-3848, for the hearing impaired that spells out the answers on TDD terminals. Butterball hotlines operate weekdays November 2 through December 23. Reynolds Turkey Information Line: 800-745-4000. This 24-hour, seven-day line offers recorded messages from November 1 through November 30 on defrosting a turkey, then roasting by three different methods: (1) the Reynolds cooking-bag method, (2) the fully foil-wrapped method or (3) the foil-tent method. MAIL-ORDER TURKEYS Before ordering a turkey, always ask whether the bird is fresh or frozen, how it will be kept cool (or frozen) in transit, how it will be shipped and when you will receive it. Amazing Foods, New York, NY; 212- 645-4166. Fresh wild and organic turkeys. Czimers Game and Seafoods, Lock- port, IL; 708-301-0500. Frozen wild turkeys. DArtagnan, Jersey City, NJ; 800-327- 8246 or 201-792-0748. Fresh organic turkeys, fresh or frozen wild turkeys. The Forsts, Kingston, NY; 800-453- 4010 or 914-331-3500. Frozen wild turkeys. The Game Exchange, San Francisco, CA; 800-GAME-USA. Fresh or frozen wild turkeys. The Native Game Company, Spearfish, SD; 800-952-6321. Fresh wild turkeys. Oakwood Game FP, Princeton, MN; 800-328-6647 . Frozen wild turkeys. Stonewood FP, Orwell, VT; 802-948-2277. Fresh Vermont toms and hens. Sugar Hill Farm, Colebrook, CT; 800- 526-2748. Frozen natural white-feathered turkeys of two types: Birds raised according to NOFA standards and minimally processed turkeys containing no artificial ingredients. Wild Game, Inc, Chicago, IL; 312-278- 1661. Fresh wild turkeys. chic 100