1. Sprinkle entire surface of each steak with 2 teaspoons kosher salt (or 1 tsp table salt); let sit at room temperature 1 hour. Pat steaks dry with paper towels; sprinkle each with 1 teaspoon pepper.

2. Turn all burners to high and heat with lid down until very hot, about 15 minutes. Scrape grate clean with grill brush. Leave primary burner on high and turn other burners to low.

3. Position steaks directly over the hottest part of grill with tenderloin sides (smaller side of T-bone) facing cooler side of grill and close lid. Grill without moving until dark brown crust forms, about 6 minutes. (Small flareups will occur; if flames become constant, slide steaks to cooler side of grill and mist fire with water from spray bottle.) Flip steaks and turn so that tenderloin sides are once again facing cooler side of grill. Continue to grill until dark brown crust forms on second side, about 6 minutes.

4. For rare steaks (120°F), remove meat from grill. For medium-rare and medium steaks, transfer meat to cooler side of grill, turn low burners off, and cook with lid down for about 2 minutes for medium-rare (125°F) or about 4 minutes for medium (130°F), flipping steaks halfway through cooking time.

5.???Transfer steaks to cutting board. Let rest 10 minutes. Cut strip and tenderloin pieces off bones; cut each crosswise into 1/4-inch slices. Serve immediately.

Serves 4 to 6