1. For the Hens: Dissolve salt in 4 quarts cold water in large container. Submerge hens in brine, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate 1 hour.

2. While hens brine, combine sugar and spices in small bowl. If using wood chunks, soak them in water for 1 hour; drain. Remove birds from brine and rinse inside and out with cold running water; pat dry with paper towels. Following illustrations 5 through 8 below, use 8 to 10-inch flat metal skewer to secure each hen. Rubs hens evenly with spice mixture and refrigerate while preparing grill.

3. To Make Glaze: Cook all ingredients in small saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until thick and slightly reduced, about 5 minutes.

4. To Grill Hens: Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal (6 qts, or about 100 briquettes) and allow to burn until coals are fully ignited and partially covered with thin layer of ash, 20 to 25 minutes. Place disposable pan in center of grill. Empty coals into grill, creating equal-sized piles on each side of pan. Place 2 soaked wood chunks on each pile of coals, if using. Position cooking grate over coals, cover grill, and heat grate until hot, about 5 minutes; scrape grate clean with grill brush. Lightly dip wad of paper towels in oil; holding wad with tongs, wipe cooking grate.

5. Place hens, skin-side down, on center of grill over aluminum pan. Open grill lid vents completely and cover, positioning vents over hens. Grill-roast hens until instant-read thermometer inserted in thickest part of thigh registers 160 to 165°F and skin has started to turn golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes.

6. Using tongs, move birds to hot sides of grill (2 hens per side). Cover and continue to cook until browned, about 5 minutes. Brush birds with half of glaze; flip and cook for 2 minutes. Brush remaining glaze over hens; flip and continue to cook until instant-read thermometer inserted in thickest part of the thigh registers 170 to 175°F, 1 to 3 minutes longer.

7. Transfer hens to cutting board and let rest 10 minutes. Cut in half through breastbone and serve immediately.

Serves 4