1. For the Hens: Dissolve salt in 4 quarts cold water in large container. Submerge hens in brine, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate 1 hour.

2. While hens brine, combine sugar and spices in small bowl. If using wood chips, soak them in water for 30 minutes; drain. Remove birds from brine and rinse inside and out with cold running water; pat dry with paper towels. Following illustrations 5 through 8 below, use 8 to 10-inch flat metal skewer to secure each hen. Rubs hens evenly with spice mixture and refrigerate while preparing grill.

3. To Make Glaze: Cook all ingredients in small saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until thick and slightly reduced, about 5 minutes.

4. To Grill Hens: Drain chips and place in small disposable aluminum pan; set pan on one burner and replace cooking grate. Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat until very hot and chips are smoking, about 15 minutes (if chips ignite, use waterfilled spray bottle to extinguish). Scrape grate clean with grill brush. Lightly dip wad of paper towels in oil; holding wad with tongs, wipe cooking grate. Turn all burners to medium.

5. Place hens, skin-side down, on grill grate. Cover and grill until skin is deeply browned and shows grill marks, 10 to 15 minutes. (If grill has hot spots, you might have to move hens on grill.) Using tongs, flip birds; cover and continue to grill until thickest part of thigh registers 160 to 165°F, 10 to 15 minutes more.

6. Brush birds with half of glaze. Using tongs, flip birds and cook until deeply browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Brush remaining glaze over hens; flip and continue to cook until deeply browned and thickest part of thigh registers 170 to 175°F, 2 to 3 minutes more.

7. Transfer hens to cutting board and let rest 10 minutes. Cut in half through breastbone and serve immediately.

Serves 4