For köfte 2 slices firm white sandwich bread, torn into pieces 1 lb ground lamb 1 small red onion, minced or grated 1/3 cup finely chopped fresh parsley 1 tablespoon baharat spice mix* 1 1/2 teaspoons Maras pepper flakes* 1 1/2 teaspoons Urfa pepper flakes* 2 teaspoons salt Accompaniment: 16 soft lettuce leaves for wrapping (optional) Special equipment: 16 (10-inch) wooden skewers *Available by mail order from Formaggio Kitchen (888-212-3224) Make sauce: Stir yogurt with garlic and salt to taste. Make köfte: Cover bread with water in a bowl and soak 30 minutes, then squeeze bread to remove as much moisture as possible. Prepare grill while bread soaks. Transfer squeezed bread to a large bowl and add remaining köfte ingredients, then mix well with your hands until thoroughly blended. Divide lamb mixture into 16 portions and form each into a ball. Roll each ball into a 7- to 8-inch-long cigar, rolling first between your hands and then on a work surface (be sure the köfte are thin enough for even cooking). Slide a skewer lengthwise through center of each köfte. Grill on oiled grill rack, turning over once, until golden and just cooked through, 4 to 6 minutes. Serve warm with yogurt sauce. Cooks note: Köfte can be broiled on a baking sheet 5 inches from heat, turning over once. Makes 4 to 6 servings. Gourmet May 2001