Into a bowl sift together the flour, the baking soda, the ginger, the cinnamon, the cloves, and the allspice. In a bowl with an electric mixer cream the butter with the brown sugar until the mixture is light and fluffy, beat in the molasses, and beat the mixture until it is combined well. Beat in the eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition, and beat in the flour mixture. Beat in the lemon brandy and the buttermilk and pour the batter into a buttered 9-inch round cake pan, 1-1/2 inches deep, smoothing the top. Bake the gingerbread in the middle of a preheated 350° F. oven for 35 to 40 minutes, or until a tester comes out clean, and let it cool in the pan on a rack. Run the blade of a knife around the edge to loosen the gingerbread and turn the gingerbread out onto a plate. Serve the gingerbread plain or spread it with the chocolate or lemon icing. LEMON BRANDY the rind of 2 lemons, removed with a vegetable peeler 1/4 cup brandy With the flat side of a heavy knife or in a mortar with a pestle crush the rind until the oils are released and in a small jar with a tight-fitting lid combine the rind and the brandy. Let the mixture stand for at least 1 week.