For the croutons: 1 large garlic clove, minced and mashed to a paste with 1/4 tsp salt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened twelve 3/4-inch-thick diagonal slices of Italian or French bread, broiled on one side until pale golden 3/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan In a large skillet heat the butter over moderately high heat until it is hot but not smoking and in it saute the shiitake mushrooms, stirring, for 3 to 5 minutes, or until they are softened. Add the button and the oyster mushrooms, saute the mixture, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, or until all the mushrooms are softened and browned and the liquid they give off is evaporated, and transfer the mixture to a bowl. In the skillet cook the pancetta over moderate heat, stirring, until the fat is rendered, discard the fat, and cook the pancetta over low heat, stirring, until it is crisp. Add the garlic, the shallot, and the pepper and cook the mixture, stirring, for 3 minutes. Add the Marsala, deglaze the skillet over high heat, scraping up the brown bits, and add the glace de viande. Boil the mixture, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the cream and the mushroom mixture to the pancetta mixture, boil the mixture, stirring occasionally, for 5 to 10 minutes, or until the sauce is thickened, and stir in the parsley. Keep the mixture warm. Make the croutons: In a small bowl stir together the garlic paste and the butter, spread a thin layer of the garlic butter on the untoasted sides of the bread slices, reserving any remaining garlic butter for another use, and sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the Parmesan evenly over each slice. Arrange the slices on a baking sheet and broil them under a preheated broiler about 6 inches from the heat for 30 seconds to 1 minute, or until the cheese is golden brown. Arrange 2 croutons on each of 6 plates and spoon the mushroom mixture over them. Serves 6 as a first course. appet 85