Season tuna lightly with salt. Pour the peppercorns on a sheet of wax paper or a large plate and press each slice of tuna into the pepper to evenly coat both sides. Refrigerate until needed.

In a small skillet or saucepan, reduce the port and cognac until 2 tablespoons remain. Add the stock and reduce until the sauce thickens. Strain into a clean pan, whisk in the butter, and season to taste. Keep warm.

Heat a skillet large enough to hold the 4 tuna steaks in one layer or preheat a grill. Over high heat, sear the tuna on both sides, 35 to 45 seconds per side. Cut each steak into 1/2-inch thick slices.

Spoon a little sauce in the center of each of four plates. Arrange one sliced tuna steak on the sauce and garnish with the green peppercorns. Serve immediately.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

Comments: The first rule for making a great fish dish is always buy the freshest fish. I use sushi grade Ahi tuna. When I cook tuna steaks I always cut away the blood line in the fish and then sear the steaks for less than a minute on each side. In this recipe youre treating the tuna like the best steak. Try serving it with Creamy Mashed Potatoes With Caramelized Onions (see recipe).

Wine Recommendation: I like something big and flavorful to accompany tuna and Id look for a Californian Cabernet Sauvignon from Beringer, Bealieu Vineyards or Robert Mondavi. For something a little more unusual think about a Pinot Noir from Chalone or Au Bon Climat. All these wines are affordable and represent good value.