Butterfly the shrimp: Peel and devein the shrimp with a small sharp knife. Butterfly the shrimp by cutting along the back, halfway through. Arrange the shrimp on a large platter. Sprinkle with the minced jalapeño and the chopped cilantro. Pour the lime juice over and let marinate for at least 30 minutes, refrigerated. When ready to cook, season lightly with salt.

Prepare the batter: In a small bowl, sift together the flour and baking powder. Whisk in the water until the batter is smooth, then add the remaining ingredients, seasoning with cayenne and salt to taste. Place small bowl in slightly larger bowl full of ice to keep batter ice cold. This ensures crisp tempura.

At serving time, in a deep, heavy saucepan, wok, or deep-fat fryer, heat 3 inches of oil to 350 degrees.

Dip each shrimp into the batter and coat well. Carefully place three or four in the hot oil and cook until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon or flat strainer and drain on paper towels. Keep warm while preparing the remaining shrimp and the spinach.

In the same oil, cook the spinach. Drain on paper towels and season lightly with salt.

Arrange a few fried spinach leaves on each of 4 plates. Place 3 shrimp on top and serve immediately.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

Comments: Tempura is the extremely delicate Japanese art of deep-frying. Done properly with the right batter and hot oil, it quickly seals delicate flavors, especially something as fragile as shrimp. The batter should be dry and crisp after the deep frying.

Wine Recommendation: Fresh, young, aromatic wines are the partners I prefer for Asian appetizers. I look for Sauvignon Blancs (or Fumé Blancs as theyre often called in California) like Geyser Peak or Kendall Jackson, or the inexpensive Semillon-Chardonnay blends from Australian producers like Rosemount, Seppelts and Penfolds.