1. Heat oil and pancetta in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat; cook until pancetta is browned and crisp, 4 to 5 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer pancetta to paper towel-lined plate. Pour off and discard all but 2 tablespoons rendered fat from skillet.

2. Return skillet to medium-low heat and add garlic and pepper flakes. Cook, stirring frequently, until garlic begins to turn golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Carefully add 1 1/2 cups wine and increase heat to medium-high. Cook until wine is reduced to 1/2 cup, 8 to 10 minutes. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt. Taste and season with up to 1 tablespoon sugar if needed.

3. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until pasta is flexible but not fully cooked, about 4 minutes. Reserve 2 cups pasta water, then drain pasta.

4. Transfer pasta to skillet with reduced white wine. Place skillet over medium heat; add 1/2 cup unreduced wine and cook, tossing constantly until wine is fully absorbed. Continue to add remaining wine, 1/2 cup at a time, tossing constantly, until pasta is al dente, about 8 minutes. (If wine is absorbed before spaghetti is fully cooked, add 1/2 cup reserved pasta water at a time to skillet and continue to cook.)

5. Place arugula on top of spaghetti; pour 1/4 cup reserved pasta water over arugula, cover, and let stand for 1 minute. Add cream and 1/4 cup Pecorino Romano; toss until sauce lightly coats pasta and arugula is evenly distributed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to serving platter and sprinkle with pancetta, remaining 1/4 cup Pecorino Romano, and pine nuts. Serve immediately, passing extra Pecorino Romano separately.

URL: http://www.cooksillustrated.com/recipes/detail.asp?docid=36332

Serves 4