1. TO BRINE THE CHOPS: Using sharp paring knife, cut 1-inch opening into side of each chop, then cut pocket for stuffing (see illustrations below). Dissolve sugar and 1/4 cup salt in 6 cups water in large bowl or container; submerge chops, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour.

2. TO MAKE THE STUFFING: In food processor, pulse bread and pine nuts until evenly ground, about ten 1-second pulses.

3. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering; add garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add spinach; using tongs, turn spinach to coat with oil. Cook, stirring with tongs, until spinach is wilted, about 2 minutes. Transfer spinach to colander in sink and gently squeeze to release excess moisture; cool spinach until just warm.

4. Mix together Fontina, ricotta, and Parmesan in bowl. Add spinach and bread crumb mixture; using spatula, mix well to break up clumps. Squeeze juice from lemon wedges into small bowl; reserve juiced wedges for sealing stuffing pockets in chops. Stir 1 tablespoon lemon juice, salt, nutmeg, and pepper to taste into stuffing.

5. TO STUFF AND COOK THE CHOPS: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position, place rimmed baking sheet or shallow roasting pan on rack, and heat oven to 450°F. Remove chops from brine and rinse under cool running water; pat dry with paper towels. Place one-quarter of stuffing in pocket of each chop. Trim reserved lemon wedges from stuffing recipe to 2-inch lengths; insert one lemon wedge into each pocket to contain stuffing. Sprinkle chops with salt and pepper.

6. Heat oil in heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just beginning to smoke. Arrange chops in skillet and cook without moving chops until well browned, about 3 minutes. Using tongs, flip chops and cook until well browned on second side, 2 to 3 minutes longer.

7. Using tongs, transfer chops to preheated pan in oven; cook until instant-read thermometer inserted into center of stuffing registers 135°F, 15 to 20 minutes, flipping chops halfway through cooking time. Transfer chops to platter, tent loosely with foil, and let rest 10 minutes (internal temperature will climb to 145°F). Serve immediately.

Serves 4