Make the soup base. In a saucepan, combine the lobster stock, chili paste, lemon grass, Thai basil leaves and small Thai chile and bring to a boil. Reduce until only 2 cups remain. Set aside.

Make the dumplings. In a mixing bowl, combine the ground chicken, garlic, ginger, soy sauce, fish sauce, potato starch and black pepper. Mix until well blended. Divide into 8 portions. Wrap each portion around the end of each sugarcane stick. Reserve.

Make the soup. To the soup base, add the coconut milk and lime leaves. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, lime juice and sugar. Add the dumplings and simmer until done, about 3 minutes.

Divide the softened glass noodles on four soup bowls. Place two dumplings crisscross on top of the noodles, leaning to the side of the bowl. Divide the soup onto the four bowls. Garnish each bowl with julienne of carrots, leeks, Thai chiles and lime leaf. Serve immediately.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

Comments: Theres an incredible combination of flavors in this soup, and its one of my all time favorites. Its a mixture of spicy, sweet, sour, and cool. Like all good things it takes time. So, take it easy when preparing all the ingredients, so when its time to cook youll be in total control -- and most importantly youll have fun.

Wine Recommendation: Dont be frightened of experimenting with wines to accompany a strong Asian-flavored dish like this. Try a good Californian Chardonnay to start with. Or, if youre feeling brave, try cooling a young red like a Syrah or one of Niebaum-Coppolas light and fruity Italian varietals. Of course, you can always do what the Thais do -- take the cap off a cold bottle of Singha beer!