BIGA: Combine flour, yeast, and water in medium bowl and stir with wooden spoon until uniform mass forms, about 1 minute. Cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let stand at room temp at least 8 and up to 24 hours. Or use sourdough starter.

DOUGH: Place everything in bowl of stand mixer. Mix on lowest speed until roughly combined and shaggy dough forms, about 1 minute, scraping down sides. Continue mixing on medium-low until dough becomes uniform mass that collects on paddle 4 to 6 minutes. Change to dough hook and knead bread on medium speed until smooth and shiny (dough will be very sticky), about 10 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap. Let rise at room temp until doubled, about 1 hour.

Spray rubber spatula with cooking spray; fold partially risen dough over itself by gently lifting and folding edge of dough toward middle. Turn bowl 90 degrees; fold again. Turn bowl and fold dough six more times (total of eight turns). Let rise for 30 minutes. Repeat 3 more times. Meanwhile pre-heat oven to 450 degrees.

Put parchment paper on 2 sheets and smear liberally with olive oil. Pour out dough, being careful not to deflate completely. Pull and prod with oiled fingers to a rough 12- by 6-inch shape. cover with plastic wrap. Let loaves sit at room temperature for 30 minutes (surfaces of loaves will develop small bubbles).

Spray with real olive oil, sprinkle with a little Italian seasoning. Top with sea salt flakes. Bake, spraying loaves with water twice more during first 5 minutes of baking time, until crust is deep golden brown and instant-read thermometer inserted into centers of loaves registers 210 degrees, 22 to 27 minutes. Transfer to wire rack, discard parchment, and cool loaves to room temperature, about 1 hour, before slicing and serving.