Generally the idea is that the rice is insaporito - gently fried in a finely chopped mixture of onion and garlic, parsley, anchovies, etc. (soffritto or battuto) which has been sauteed lightly in oil and butter to develop flavors. Then a hot liquid (stock for preference, but water will do) is added, about a cupful at a time, as the rice cooks, swells, absorbs the liquid and begins to dry out. The rice should always be kept simmering and at no point be allowed to dry out completely. An Italian risotto is far more moist than, for example, a Spanish or Indian rice dish - in fact, it may often be too mushy for American or English tastes. As Italian rice, Arborio and Vialone for example, is better suited to this method of cooking, it is well worth trying to get it. There will be less danger of this type breaking down into a mush than if ordinary rice is used. A risotto must be watched carefully all the time that it is cooking. Stop adding liquid when the rice is tender with still a little bite to each grain, and there is just enough liquid left to bubble gently. Rice with its liquid still bubbling is called riso allonda or rippling rice and many recipes specify that this is how it should be when ready. Do not strain before serving. The risotto is sometimes left for a couple of minutes before serving to settle, especially if any flavoring has been added at the last moment, to give it time to impregnate the rice. PASTA 44